Day 1: Interview with Philipp Langer from it's organic

Sustainability and Ecology. Where are we at?

We asked this question to Philipp Langer. Years ago, this proprietor of the German company it’s organic wholeheartedly dedicated himself to “green” fashion. Langer is a consultant for trading firms and industrial enterprises and develops health and eco-friendly fabrics and collections.

munichfabricstart: Mr. Langer, you have been active in the field of organic textiles for many years now and act as a link between upstream suppliers and readytowear manufacturers. What interesting developments will buyers and designers come across, particularly in terms of textiles, when visiting the forum organicselection by munichfabricstart?
Philipp Langer: “Organic” and “sustainable” concepts have finally reached the fashion industry. The range has increased considerably and the organic claims of fabrics have become more precise. Aside from organic cotton, you now also find organic wool and organic silk, fabrics made from recycled materials and especially eco-friendly techniques for dyeing and finishing.

munichfabricstart: What are the chances of producing aspirational fashion collections here? Where are the limitations?
Philipp Langer: Aspirational fashion means being in tune with the trends – which today especially means garments that have been carefully sourced and developed. In the casual segment I don’t see any great limitations in terms of fabric range anymore though I do in ready-to-wear. Sophisticated woollen fabrics are capital intensive and not in sufficient demand in organic versions.

munichfabricstart: In your experience, to what extent are small to medium-sized fashion firms willing to deal with this issue?
Philipp Langer: I think almost every fashion business has already dealt with the issue. Many stakeholders here are open to “better, cleaner” products. However, higher purchase prices and watered-down terms raise the inhibition threshold here. Increasing awareness amongst consumers rewards all those manufacturers with a consistent policy here.

munichfabricstart: In your opinion, to what extent will this issue disseminate across the fashion industry in the future and in what way?
Philipp Langer: The “cleaner, greener clothing” issue will remain part of the social debate on the injustices of this world from both an ecological and ethical perspective. I can see the market segment growing significantly, primarily with labels or large groups with a clear mission statement who act on and communicate their concept consistently. Organic products give firms clear marketing edge with organic food already successfully paving the way here.

» www.its-organic.de

Day 2: Interview with Jo Baumgartner, fashion expert at munichfabricstart

What denim trends are really “hot”?

Jo Baumgartner: “Personally, I think here of colours like cold, dark tones in steel blue, zinc grey and slightly greyish shades of black reminiscent of old factory plants. Displaying a decidedly sportier feel are authentic colours drawn from the shiny, silver elements and matt bronze of drum kits with their drums, cymbals and hi-hats – preferably in combination with the colours of guitar strings to produce an exciting, sonorous interplay of colour. In terms of fabric robust canvas for instance – the kind used for sturdy drum kit bags – is really good. Or leather-like coatings that pick up on the look of worn-out leather trousers. More feminine are the light denim washes of more wintry fabric weights while intense indigo tones reminiscent of the original “Bleu de Nîmes” are great.

Day 2: Interview with Ben Harris, director of the Mudpie Ltd. in London

More than ever before kidswear is influenced by the media. Mapping out for us the scenario for next winter’s children’s fashion this is something Ben Harris, Director of the Mudpie
Ltd. in London knows only too well. Together with munichfabricstart – pre collections this agency (whose trend books sell through mode…information) developed the “Milky Way”
trend theme exclusively for kidswear – one which places an emphasis on the thirst for knowledge and inquisitiveness of our youngsters.

munichfabricstart: What will be the decisive innovations in kidswear for Autumn/Winter 2010/2011?
Ben Harris: Popular culture is influenced by many factors including new lifestyle models, new consumer groups and advances in technology. For Winter 2010/11 our “Escapism” trend theme demonstrates the popularity of performance art across all age groups with the frivolity and quirkiness of theatre, circus and dance that influence both graphics and fashion.
“Cleanse”, on the other hand, explores a new model for family life: a future for children that encompasses ecological living, technological advances and space age style. For children technology is an intrinsic part of their life and will also remain so in the years to come. The rapid growth of youth culture on Hispanic consumer markets like Central and South America is driving global trends, influencing everything from design and media to fashion. Exploration of distant cultures such as those in South America influences our vivid and colourful trend “Origin” that combines iconography and decorative handicrafts with modern South American culture.

munichfabricstart: Which social influences drive kidswear these days?
Ben Harris: Changing and emerging economies, social and political changes and influences make up the general picture. Alongside this it is primarily the media that will continue to have a huge influence on children at a lower level. Popular series like High School Musical and Hannah Montana provide role models, as do sporting heroes and the style of influential and fashionable pop bands. The advent of fast and cheap fashion means the looks worn by celebrities are on the high street within weeks, at affordable prices. A desire to ‘fit in’ is also essential with kids whose peers also exert a major influence. Social networking on websites like Facebook, Bebo and MySpace means judgement is passed on their latest look, personal “branding” is promoted and is online for everyone to see thereby conveying an ‘online image’ that often proves as important as reality itself. Mini groups emerge amongst circles of friends with similar interests, with ‘dress code’ being their key distinguishing feature.

About Ben Harris:
2000 saw him join Mudpie as a designer. In 2004 he was made Director and today he is Sales Director.